Garrett McNamara

Books by Garrett McNamara

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I can be sittin' at home in Hawaii and see the biggest swell of the year coming here and be so happy and just say, 'No, I'm happy right here.'
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I lose my mind if I miss a swell that I want to be on and I have the ability to be on it.
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When I took off on nearly vertical waves that no one else would touch, people assumed I had no fear. When they watched me suffer epic wipeouts then come up smiling, it was decided I had a screw loose.
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God must love tow surfers - and I'm not a religious person.
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If you get under water, you're at the mercy of our team coming in and getting us before we get another one on the head, and another one on the head, and another one. Or, we have to be able to handle it, and that's where our trainer and our coaches and our people who help us stay fit come into play, the other part of the team.
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When you're underwater getting pounded, you are at the mercy of the ocean.
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When you wipe out, all you can do is let the wave take you and stay calm until you can come up for air.
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I might just paddle out to hang out, and if I get a wave, I'd do it, but if I don't, it's still worth it.
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